Understanding the Basics: Used, Pre-Owned, and Vintage
Before diving into condition ratings, it’s helpful to know the fundamental categories. While often used interchangeably, these terms have distinct meanings among enthusiasts and sellers.
- Used: This is the broadest term. Any instrument that has had at least one previous owner is considered used. It could be a guitar that’s six months old or a drum kit from the 1980s.
- Pre-Owned: This term is often used by shops and dealers to describe used gear that is typically more recent and in good condition. It carries a slightly more premium feel than “used,” but the meaning is largely the same.
- Vintage: This is where things get more specific. While there’s no single, universally agreed-upon cutoff date, an instrument is generally considered “vintage” when it’s between 30 and 100 years old. For electric guitars, the “pre-CBS” Fender era (before 1966) or Gibson guitars from the 1950s are prime examples of highly sought-after vintage periods. The term implies a certain level of desirability due to its age, craftsmanship, materials, or historical significance.
The Common Language of Condition
When you see a vintage instrument for sale or being discussed, its condition is usually described using a grading system. This helps set expectations about its physical state. Here are the most common terms, from best to worst.
Mint or As New
This is the highest possible rating and is quite rare for any instrument that has actually been sold. It means the instrument is in the exact same condition as it was when it left the factory. It has no scratches, dings, or signs of wear. Often, it will include all the original documentation, accessories, and its original case, sometimes called “case candy.”
Excellent
An instrument in excellent condition shows only the slightest signs of being played. You might find very light pick scratches on a guitar’s pickguard or a few tiny, barely noticeable marks on the body. The hardware is shiny, the electronics work perfectly, and there are no significant cosmetic flaws. It’s a clean, well-cared-for piece that is very close to new.
Very Good (VG)
This is a common condition for instruments that have been played but also well-maintained. A guitar in “Very Good” condition will have some noticeable cosmetic wear, such as scratches, small dings on the body or neck, and some tarnishing on the hardware. The finish might have lost some of its original luster. However, the instrument is structurally sound and plays perfectly without any issues.
Good
The term “Good” can be a bit misleading because it describes an instrument with significant signs of use. This is often what musicians call a “player grade” instrument. It will have noticeable cosmetic damage: multiple dings, dents, buckle rash (scratches on the back from a belt buckle), and finish checking (cracks in the lacquer). Some parts may have been replaced, such as tuning machines or electronic components. Despite the wear, a “Good” instrument is fully functional and ready to be played.
Fair and Poor
These terms describe instruments that have serious issues.
- Fair: An instrument in fair condition has all the wear of a “Good” instrument, plus some significant problems. This could include a cracked headstock on a guitar that was repaired, major electronic issues, or significant structural damage. It is playable, but it needs work.
- Poor: This is a project instrument. It is not in playable condition and requires significant repairs to be functional. It might have severe cracks, a warped neck, or be missing essential parts.
Beyond Grades: The Nuances of “Mojo” and More
The music community uses a rich vocabulary that goes beyond simple condition ratings. These terms capture the intangible qualities that make vintage instruments so special.
Player Grade
This is one of the most important concepts. A “player grade” instrument is one whose value lies in its sound and playability rather than its pristine, all-original condition. It has the cosmetic wear to prove it’s been a reliable tool for a musician. For example, a 1962 Fender Stratocaster with a refinished body and replaced pickups would lose value for a collector, but a musician might cherish it for its incredible feel and tone, acquiring it for a fraction of the price of an all-original model.
All Original
For collectors, these are the magic words. An “all original” instrument has all the same parts it had when it left the factory. This includes the finish, pickups, potentiometers, tuners, and bridge. Verifying this often requires careful inspection of solder joints and date codes on components. Originality is the single biggest factor in the high-end vintage market.
Mojo
“Mojo” is the intangible, almost mythical quality of a well-loved vintage instrument. It’s the story told by the worn finish on a guitar neck, the patina on a brass saxophone, or the faded wrap on a vintage drum. It’s the idea that the instrument has absorbed the energy of all the music played on it. While you can’t measure it, musicians will often say an instrument with a lot of mojo feels more inspiring to play.
Finish Checking
This refers to the fine, web-like cracks that appear in an instrument’s lacquer finish as it ages. The wood and the finish expand and contract at different rates over decades, causing these lines to form. Once seen as a flaw, finish checking is now a highly desirable characteristic of vintage instruments, as it’s a sign of authentic aging that is difficult to replicate artificially.
Tonewoods
This term refers to the types of wood used to build an instrument and their effect on its sound. Discussions around vintage gear often focus on specific tonewoods that are now rare or regulated, such as Brazilian rosewood, which was commonly used for guitar fretboards before the late 1960s. Enthusiasts believe these older, often old-growth woods contribute to a richer, more complex sound.